Choosing the right exterior paint is an important part of what we do as professional residential exterior painters. When we evaluate a project, we first ask, What is the customer’s goal with this project? Understanding our customer’s goal is the first step to deciding on the paint product. The goals of painting projects can vary from extending the life of a building envelope (siding, trim, windows, doors, etc.) to a simple refresh. Once we define the goal of the project, we evaluate the types and conditions of surfaces present. In this article, we will discuss exterior home repaint projects, as they generally occur in the residential and multifamily residential space.
Certain surfaces require specific preparation or priming to paint. Most paints have a data page, downloadable from the manufacturer website, which identifies the types of surfaces a paint would be useful for and required primers or surface preparation techniques.
However, navigating the world of paints can be complicated due to the presence of several factors:
- The type of painted surface – Among other things, the type of surface determines what performance needs we have from our paint.
- The condition of the painted surface –Is the surface smooth or rough, glossy or dull, clean or greasy? Is it new or deteriorated?
- The intended outcome of the painting job – Do we want to extend the life of the existing building envelope, or just give it a simple refresh? Do we want to change the look or add colors? Will it be a one-coat refresh or a full scope of painting and light carpentry repairs?
- The availability of products to achieve that outcome – Do we have paints that allow us to achieve our goals? What processes do those products entail?
Because of this multivariate analysis, we will not be able to cover every combination of surface, condition, intended outcome, and products in this article, or for that matter, in even a moderately-sized textbook.
The table below catalogs examples of surfaces, and whether these surfaces would typically be part of a painting project.
| Likely to Paint | Maybe | Unlikely to Paint |
|---|---|---|
| Fiber cement siding (lap siding or panels) and soffits | Vinyl siding or trim | Metal roofs (or roofs in general) |
| Wood lap siding | Worn or dulled prefinished copings, railings, or flashing | Prefinished copings, railings, or flashing |
| T-111 wood siding | — | Trex or other composite decking |
| Wood trim | Concrete decking | Previously unpainted concrete surfaces |
| White wood trim or synthetic wood trim | — | Kynar-coated surfaces |
| Previously painted railings, copings (roof caps), and flashing | — | Tile or masonry |
| Wood soffits | — | — |
| Wood veneer (previously stained and/or clear-coated) | — | — |
| Previously painted downspouts | — | — |
| Doors | — | — |
| Door and window frames | — | — |
Perhaps one of the more important services that professional painting contractors provide is understanding the extent to which a surface needs to be prepared, and which products should be used on that surface. Armadillo Painting works in collaboration with our suppliers to ensure that the proper products and technologies are being applied.
Let us look at the Likely to paint column and talk about painting systems.
Fiber Cement Siding
Siding is usually painted, so when repainting, we examine the condition of the existing paint and siding. Is the paint peeling, bubbling, exhibiting efflorescence? Is the color more faded on one side than the others? Normal exterior acrylic house paints are sufficient for painting exterior siding. Products like Sherwin-Williams A-100 or SuperPaint Exterior are designed to be applied to previously painted fiber cement siding. Other products include the Rodda CoverCoat XL or Protector XL-100.
Typically, more expensive products within the same category will perform better over time. For example, the styrenated acrylic Sherwin-Williams Duration Exterior goes on thicker and is made of a higher grade of acrylic than SuperPaint Exterior, which is made of vinyl acrylic. Duration Exterior can be applied with just a one-coat application for repaints on properly prepared substrates. SuperPaint is still yet, a higher grade than A-100.
You will also notice that some paints come with manufacturer warranties that are longer than others (i.e., 15 year versus 25 year). It is worth noting that these warranties typically cover paint failure caused by a problem with the paint, not problems with the application of the paint, or problems with the surface and/or design to which the paint is applied. This is important because, say, if you painted a piece of trim and the paint beneath it comes off, taking the paint off which you applied, that will likely be attributed to the paint underneath the new application. A typical repaint cycle in western Washington is about 12 years for a home or 7 years for a condominium.
Wood Lap Siding
Wood lap siding can be a little different. You may have an existing surface that is stained or painted. Again, we ask: What is the customer’s goal? Does the customer want a fresh-painted look with a sheen, or are they looking to exhibit the wood grain?
If a surface is previously painted, and you are looking for a stained look, that would require sanding all the existing paint off and staining it. If the surface is currently stained, you may either apply two coats of paint or apply an oil-based primer to seal in the existing oil-based stain, before the two coats of paint. For instance, if water beads up on the wood, that may indicate that the particular spot on the wood may not be receptive to a topcoat of paint, and may need cleaning with a chemical cleaner and/or priming.
The table below illustrates only some of many existing conditions and desired outcomes, and how those would influence preparation and finish types.
| Existing Condition Wood Siding | Desired Condition | Preparation | Finish Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Transparent wood grain cedar or redwood with an existing oil-based transparent stain, clean and dry | Solid color with a protective sheen | Pressure-wash, perhaps some light sanding, apply one coat of oil-based exterior wood primer. | Exterior Latex Acrylic |
| Previously painted wood | New coats of paint (new colors) | Pressure-wash, some light sanding and scraping, spot-priming, and appropriately shaded primer if necessary | Exterior Latex Acrylic |
| Transparent wood grain cedar or redwood with an existing oil-based transparent stain, clean and dry | Transparent wood grain cedar or redwood with an existing oil-based transparent stain, clean and dry | Pressure-wash, perhaps some light sanding and spot-priming with exterior oil-based primer at tannin-heavy areas like knots | Exterior water-based or oil-based solid-color wood stain. |
T-111 Wood Siding
In a typical repaint situation, we would paint this kind of siding. It is a laminated wood product and treated like a previously painted wood surface. Preparation and primers will depend on the condition of the existing paint. Because of the grooves in the siding, it may be wise to use a thicker primer or paint and paint in such a way that particularly ensures penetration onto every plane of the surface. For T-111 surfaces, the often-preferred method of spraying and back-rolling or back-brushing is important.
White Wood/ Synthetic Wood
This condition came into some common use several years ago in the building industry. This kind of synthetic wood material can soften and damage with exposure to rain. If the material is in good condition, we will paint it to match previously painted material.
Previously Painted Railings, Copings, downspouts, and Roof caps
Railings, copings, and roof caps receive much direct rain, sun, and other kinds of weather exposure, requiring a hardy paint. We also want these surfaces to look smooth and shiny. For that, we usually use DTM (direct to metal) paints, which have a tighter finish (less porosity/ higher “perms” rating). Railings may also benefit from having a higher resistance to abrasion. Products that are both designed to adhere to metal and generally have a hard finish are best suited to this application. One example is the Sherwin-Williams Protective and Marine Coatings Sher-Cryl HPA. It has exceptional adhesion and moisture resistance properties. However, if the previously painted coping is currently flaking, it may be that the painter would consider sanding the previous coating to the point where it is no longer flaking, then apply a coat of bonding primer. Bonding primers are typically like glue and allow you to paint surfaces which would otherwise not be paintable.
Wood Soffits
If a wood soffit is previously painted, we first observe the condition of the paint. If it is bubbling, we know that moisture may be coming through from behind the soffit. That may be a roofing or building envelope failure that requires further inspection. Otherwise, a previously painted wood soffit can be scraped and spot-primed with a peel-bond primer to prevent additional flaking, then top-coated with a basic exterior acrylic latex paint, such as SuperPaint or something similar.
Sometimes, wood soffits are previously stained or clear-coated decorative panels. In these cases, we assess the ability of the topcoat to adhere to the existing finish and conduct the proper surface preparation. For example, if a clear coat has worn off, we can lightly sand it to remove anything loose and simply topcoat it with durable paint, like we used for the siding. It may be worth considering, however, that we have not observed that panel as painted before, and when going from stain to paint, we may discover that the wood was breathing or exposed to moisture. If we apply paint, it could peel. A solid color stain can offer more breathability while also covering the wood.
Wood Veneer (Previously stained and/or clear-coated)
A horizontal wood veneer can offer relief for the design of a building envelope, adding drama to a simple design. When recoating, we first observe the condition of the wood itself, whether it is darkened from exposure to water, rotted, or otherwise defective. We may choose to sand the wood down to remove an existing stain or clear-coat and/or provide a clean surface to stain, and/or clear coat, or paint altogether. Stain systems can vary between a two-coat polyurethane semi-transparent stain, such as the WoodScapes Semi-Transparent, to stain-and-clear systems, such as the Cetol-1 and Cetol-23. It is important to know the kind of wood you are staining. For example, if you are staining Ipe wood, there are only a handful of products on the market that would work for that application. You may also run into a costly situation if you decide to sand down the existing dried wood fibers or existing stain. Ipe wood can be notoriously difficult to sand. If a stain is rated for horizontal surfaces, you may be able to use it on vertical surfaces without issue. If a stain is rated for vertical surfaces, do not use it on horizontal surfaces.
It is important to note that because of the higher permeability of stain, and the lack of a strong film, stain often degrades much quicker than paint. Typical exterior staining cycles are closer to 3 to 7 years, rather than 7 to 15.
The operative word with wood veneers is absorption. If the wood absorbs water, it will likely absorb your stain just fine. Just ensure that the surface is clean, dry, and dull.
Doors
Exterior-facing doors experience the most abrasion of almost any painted surface at home. If painting a previously painted door, it must be fully cleaned, degreased, lightly sanded, and spot primed as necessary. We recommend Water-based Alkyd Urethane products or even something like the Sher-Cryl HPA. Clear-coated doors are often sanded down and stained and/or clear-coated again. Stained doors or other items made of hard woods may benefit from the use of a pre-stain conditioner before staining. This helps a stain apply more evenly. Typically, stained or bare-wood front doors are clear-coated with something like a spar urethane, with 3 coats.
Closing Thoughts
When considering the products we use to complete painting projects, we often realize that the product is only a part of the equation. Look at your home. Does it have an intricate design? Are there many breaks in the siding for trim and other features? How hard is it to access the walls? For every project, there are labor, material, and equipment costs. Large projects can be access-cost intensive (Working from a tall ladder or scaffold is time-consuming or expensive because of equipment). Where the project is more complex, it is to your advantage to do as much work in one project as possible. That is, if my building is expensive to access because of scaffolding and/or lift costs, I should seek to do as much work in one mobilization as possible as well as to choose the products with the longest life possible. This is to avoid the significant cost of mobilizing lifts or scaffolding twice.
If your project could use specialized painting knowledge and techniques, we would love to visit your home and provide you with a painting estimate. Armadillo Painting is a leading painting company in the Greater Seattle area. We perform projects for homeowners and HOA condominiums. We do our work on time, the right way, while delivering value to our customers. We understand that value means something different to everyone, and something different for every project. Call us at (425) 641-5465 or contact us online to discuss your needs for residential home interior or exterior painting, office painting, condominium painting, tilt-up, data center, and tenant improvement painting projects.
Citations
- PCA – Levels of Surface Preparation for Repainting and Maintenance Projects Receiving Architectural Coatings [PDF]
- Sherwin-Williams® – SuperDeck® Revive® Deck and Siding Brightener
- Armadillo Painting – Residential Exterior Painting Services.